When I first saw Sewaholic's Granville Shirt, I thought it would be perfect for my Liberty of London Fabric. I love the fitted look of it, and I figured it would be an excellent wardrobe builder. I wanted to make a shirt that fit me very well, so I was prepared to do some fitting work but it was more of a headache than I anticipated. However, it was an excellent learning experience!
My measurements indicated I needed I size 8 or 10 but a size 4 in the hips. I expected this because I know Sewaholic is drafted for "pear" shaped women which I am not. No problem, I started with a size 8 and graded to a size 4 at the side seams. I kept the back seams a straight size 8. Well, it looked terrible. The curves were all in the wrong places. The sides stuck out very strangely, and the back was flat and shapeless.
So, my next step was to take in the side seams a whopping 3/4" at the hip line on either side. I shaped the back seam increasing at the low hip by 1/2" on each seam. I also decided to lengthen the whole shirt by 1". The results: too tight! Too tight everywhere, the front edges don't even close. It also felt a tad too long. The back curves were a little bit better and not so flat and baggy in the low back. However, I decided to move on up and try a size 10.
I made up a size 10 grading to size 4 hips on the side seams and lengthened the bodice by only 3/4" instead of 1". Results: Horrible in so many ways but I didn't even consider fixing those problems because it was too big in the shoulders and upper chest. I needed to start with a well fitting shoulder/neckline. Soooo, back to the previous muslin!
I took my previous size 8 pattern and reduced the lengthening of the bodice to 3/4" instead of 1". Then, I took the side seams at (hip level) back out 1/2" for a net reduction of 1/4". This was graded smoothly to the upper waistline. I kept the same shaping I had done previously on the back seams. Next, I did a 3/4" F.B.A. Results: Sooo much better in the bust but still tight in the hips. So, I took out a further 3/8" at the hip side seam grading to the high waistline.
This was as good as I was going to get! Plus, I'm just sick of making muslins, and my head hurts thinking about all this. Oh yeah, the sleeve! Can't forget the sleeves. I shortened it by 3/4" which I don't think I've ever had to do in my life. I just measured the pattern and compared it to my measurements.
Judging by the way I had to take in the side seams then having to put them back out after lengthening, I think I'm trying to change too many things at once too drastically. I think next time I'll remember that simply lengthening can change a curve to sit in the right place. I'm not sure that exactly would have happened in this case, but it probably would have resulted in less back and forth adjustments. Overall, it was a good experience with fitting that I definitely need. So, I'm looking forward to actually starting to sew this thing and hopefully it turns out half decent!
Friday, 30 January 2015
I have thoroughly enjoyed sewing this lovely skirt, and I'm delighted with the way it turned out! I found that my Hawthorn Berry Sweater was the perfect companion. It was surprisingly comfortable (for a few quick minutes) considering it was -24 degrees Celsius out there!
The pattern is a vintage pattern I found on Etsy: Hollywood Pattern 1602.
I love the A-line silhouette, gores, and the fact that it has a left side zip. I don't know why but I think side closures lend a more feminine, polished feel to the whole garment.
I used a beautiful wool/cashmere blend fabric that I underlined with silk organza. Check out my previous post for more details about the pattern, fabric, and the underlining I chose. Speaking of underlining, I just wanted to say that I think it gave the skirt a lot of body. The complete garment feels very durable yet soft thanks to the silk organza underlining. It was my first time using silk organza, and it certainly won't be the last!
Now, for a few sewing details! Yay!
I made the lining from a soft bemberg rayon. I slip stitched the lining to the invisible zip.
Ok! Here's the hem. I did a 2 inch hem, and I didn't ease the fullness in with ease stitching but rather just shaped it with a bit of steam. I figured it's not like a circle skirt or anything so it's not a lot of fullness to ease in. I ended up using lace hem-tape which I catch stitched to the silk organza underlining. I like the look of the lace, but it seems a bit flimsy. The reason I went with the lace tape is that I felt doing a folded hem would look too bulky. I'm not sure; I may change it.
Lovely left side closure (my favourite!)
Well! That concludes my Vintage Wool Skirt exhibit. I feel I learned a great deal from this project, and I'll have fun wearing it too!
Next up on my sewing table... finally a project for my Liberty of London cotton lawn!
Friday, 16 January 2015
Yesterday, I joined the 2015 Vintage Sewing Pattern Pledge; that is in the second year. This challenge is hosted by A Stitching Odyssey and co-hosted by Kerry of Kestrel Makes. When I heard about it, I knew it would be a great challenge for me. I don't have a ton of vintage patterns, but I do have a few that I have not yet sewn. I also have reproduction patterns that have not yet been sewn. . This would motivate me to sew those lovely patterns tucked away in my pattern drawer. My favourite decade is the 1940's, but I'd also go for some garments from the 30's and 50's. I'm not into the 60's or 70's, but you never know. So I'm putting this pledge out there into blogland:
I Nayla, of Nayla's Notions pledge to sew four garments from vintage or reproduction patterns within the year 2015.
It shouldn't be too difficult to make four garments and yet it's still a challenge. I'm a slow sewer and believe in quality, not quantity. I also have so many other things I want to make. I'm already working on the first one of the year, which happens to be a vintage pattern; my lovely 40's wool skirt!
I'm looking forward to this awesome challenge... Yay!
Sunday, 11 January 2015
About the Pattern
Hollywood Pattern 1602: I was drawn to this vintage pattern because of the fitted and feminine yet tailored lines. I like the slim A-line skirt that is very 1940's and the gores are a beautiful detail. I couldn't find a year printed on the pattern, but it's from the 1940's. The skirt has five gores on the front and three gores on the back. All those seams allow more opportunities for adjusting the fit. I also love the jacket. I like both the short sleeved and the long sleeved versions, but I'm not a fan of those pockets. If I have pockets with it, I would probably do a more traditional pocket. I want to make the jacket one day but for now I'm concentrating on the skirt.
I traced out the pattern pieces and markings using a tracing wheel but no carbon paper. I found it easier just to cut it out following the perforations, and it was easy to see the markings that I then darkened with pen. I made a muslin and had to adjust the pattern a bit. I took out some excess fabric from the lower back to create a bit of contouring. The skirt also stuck out a bit and had a bit of a funny drape. I realized the pieces were not on grain. They also did not fit well together. So I trued the seams and adjusted the grainline.
About the Fabric
I found the most luscious Ralph Lauren cashmere/wool blend from Mood fabrics! I'm using silk organza to underline the wool.
I pre-treated the wool by putting it in the dryer with two damp towels to create some gentle steam. I was worried about it, but it turned out beautifully. This fabric is soft and richly coloured with soft heathered brown and cream. I can't wait to wear it!
I love the silk organza. It's so light and barely there but it has a lot of body. So, I had already cut out my fabric and rather than cut out the organza using the paper pattern; I pinned the fabric directly to the organza. I wanted to align the grains as closely as possible. Then I gave myself about an inch of allowance around each piece while I hand basted within the seam allowance. Only after I completed the hand-basting did I trim the organza. That way the grain lines align and the edges also align
I used my hot pink silk thread just because it's yummy to sew with. It's amazing how the silk organza affects the fabric. I can't wait to see how it affects the skirt as a whole.
I just have a couple more pieces to underline then I'll be looking forward to sewing them together.
Happy New Year and Happy Sewing!
Tuesday, 30 December 2014
Well, this marks the end of another year of sewing adventures! I've learned a lot, made some mistakes and had some happy surprises. I've learned a bit of pattern drafting, improved my fitting techniques, and I've even learned to enjoy slow and relaxing hand sewing. The main thing is that sewing has become more and more of an adventure over time. I find the more I learn, the more enjoyable it is to sew, and I hope to inspire anyone who may have the slightest desire to learn.
I now have what is pretty much my dream sewing room, complete with bright natural lighting and a view of the trees, birds and, of course, the squirrel. It's a lovely space to spend a cold winter day. I always have something on my sewing table, and my sewing queue just keeps getting longer and longer. I'm a relatively slow sewer, and I like to take my time and pay attention to the details of each project but hopefully I'll be able to tackle the majority of projects on my list. This list keeps changing so who knows! My goals for 2015 include continuing to work towards an entirely handmade wardrobe. But for now, I enjoy one project at a time. One stitch at a time.
Coming up next is a 1940's vintage wool/cashmere skirt that I have already started, but won't be blogged until next year :)
Thank you so much for reading my blog! Looking forward to a fresh new year ahead and wishing everyone a Happy New Year and Happy Sewing!
Saturday, 13 December 2014
This dress was fun to sew up. This was my first time working with ponte de roma knit fabric. I'm usually reluctant to sew with knit fabrics because I'm not as familiar with them as my usual wovens. But this is a beautiful heavy weight stable knit that has a lot of structure and a flattering drape. It worked perfectly with all those radiating tucks.
The pattern is Butterick 5559. I love it, and I'm sure I'll use again.
It was a bit of a challenge to match the tuck lines at the side seams, but if you use your pins diligently and take it slow, it's not so bad.
Well, that's it for my Radiating Red Dress. I think there may be a shorter skirted sleeveless version in my future. (I even have the fabric for it already!)
Saturday, 22 November 2014
I haven't been working on my Alabama Chanin project much lately but the reverse appliqué portion is completed and so are the shoulder seams. So, all that's left to do is the side seams and finishing the neck and armholes with binding strips. I still have to decide what kind of decorative hand stitching to use on the binding. I really enjoyed doing all the reverse appliqué hand stitching. It was so relaxing!
This project is almost done. I haven't been paying as much attention to it as I should. I guess I see it as more of a slow relaxing project; kind of like knitting a sweater ( which takes time!). So I end up doing a little here and a little there. Soon though, very soon it will be done!